Pastrami-Crusted Beef Strip Loin Roast is the ultimate holiday centerpiece.
HOLIDAY ROASTS
WHEN IT COMES TO HOLIDAY MEALS, nothing anchors the table—or the memory—quite like a beautiful roast. A holiday roast isn’t just dinner: It’s the main event, the conversation starter, and the dish that guests will remember long after the plates have been cleared. Whether you’re serving a crowd or creating an intimate celebration, the right roast brings a sense of warmth and tradition to the occasion.
This year, consider two standout options that deliver all the show-stopping appeal. For lovers of red meat, a Pastrami-Crusted Beef Strip Loin Roast (recipe opposite) from chef Matt Vawter of Rootstalk in Breckenridge, Colorado, offers a bold flavor profile inspired by classic delicatessen pastrami. Cut from the same section used for New York strip steaks, a beef strip loin roast is a more affordable cut than prime rib or tenderloin that still delivers a luxurious, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Here, it’s rubbed in a spice blend of coriander seed and black peppercorn to create a savory, barklike crust. To keep with the pastrami theme, Vawter likes to smoke the beef before roasting it in the oven. The optional one-hour smoking step doesn’t cook the beef but rather adds an extra layer of flavor.
Or, take a page from culinary legend Jacques Pépin and make his classic Duck à l’Orange (recipe p. 36). His recipe yields succulent birds crisped to golden perfection, served with a vibrant orange sauce made with orange juice, orange liqueur, aromatic vegetables, and a splash of vinegar. Pépin starts the roasting process at a high temperature (450°F) to jump-start browning and then lowers the temperature to allow the fat to render and skin to crisp. The result is timeless, elegant, and festive.
Both roasts are surprisingly simple to prepare, but they make a big impression—just the kind of dishes you want to serve when everyone’s dressed in their holiday best. Whether you’re giving your roast a deli-inspired edge or leaning into French tradition, these mains are ready for showtime.
—BREANA KILLEEN
1. TOAST AND GRIND THE SPICES
Toast coriander seeds until fragrant. Crush seeds in a mortar and pestle until coarsely ground. Repeat process with peppercorns.
2. BRUSH THE BEEF WITH MOLASSES
Place beef on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Stir together molasses and cayenne pepper; brush evenly over beef.
3. SPRINKLE THE BEEF WITH SPICES
Stir together coriander seeds, peppercorns, smoked paprika, and salt. Coat beef with spice mixture, leaving a slightly thicker layer on top.
4. (OPTIONAL) SMOKE THE BEEF
If desired, preheat a smoker to 250°F to 275°F. Scatter applewood chips over hot coals. Smoke beef until deeply fragrant, about 1 hour.
5. ROAST THE POTATOES AND ONIONS
Toss together potatoes, onion wedges, rosemary sprigs, oil, and salt on a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast at 425°F for 15 minutes.
6. ROAST THE BEEF
Push the vegetable mixture to the sides of the pan, and place beef in the center. Roast until beef is medium-rare and vegetables are tender.
Pastrami-Crusted Beef Strip Loin Roast
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN, PLUS 8 HR CHILLING; SERVES 10 TO 12
Crushed peppercorns and coriander seeds form a crust on this juicy beef roast inspired by the pastrami at classic Jewish delis. Strip loin roast is a tender, well-marbled cut of beef and a relatively affordable alternative to prime rib or beef tenderloin. If desired, deepen the flavor by smoking the beef for an hour prior to roasting.
5 Tbsp. coriander seeds
5 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1½ Tbsp. smoked paprika
2½ Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 (5- to 6-lb.) beef strip loin roast (see Note), fat trimmed to ¼ inch
½ cup molasses
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
Applewood chips (optional), soaked
3 lb. multicolored marble potatoes (about 1 inch long), halved if large
2 large red onions, cut into ¾-inch wedges
8 rosemary sprigs
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Flaky sea salt, to taste
1. Toast coriander seeds in a medium skillet over medium-low, stirring often, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Crush coriander seeds in a mortar and pestle until coarsely ground. (Alternatively, transfer to a spice grinder, and pulse until coarsely ground, about 8 pulses.) Transfer to a medium bowl.
2. Repeat toasting and crushing process with peppercorns. Add peppercorns to bowl with coriander seeds. Stir in smoked paprika and 2½ tablespoons kosher salt; set aside.
3. Place a wire rack inside a large rimmed baking sheet; set beef on rack, fat side up. Stir together molasses and cayenne pepper in a small bowl; brush evenly over beef. Coat beef all over with coriander-peppercorn mixture, pressing gently to adhere and leaving a slightly thicker layer on top side of beef. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.
4. If desired, preheat a smoker according to manufacturer’s instructions, bringing internal temperature to 250°F to 275°F. Scatter soaked applewood chips over hot coals. Place beef, fat side up, on grates, and close lid. Smoke beef, undisturbed, until deeply fragrant, about 1 hour.
5. Preheat oven to 425°F. If omitting the smoking step, let beef stand at room temperature for 1 hour. Toss together potatoes, onion wedges, rosemary sprigs, oil, and remaining 2 teaspoons kosher salt on a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes. Remove pan from oven. Push vegetable mixture to sides of baking sheet, and place beef, fat side up, in center of pan.
6. Roast until beef is starting to brown, about 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F without removing pan from oven. Bake at 325°F until a thermometer inserted into thickest portion of beef registers 118°F for medium-rare, or until desired degree of doneness, and potatoes and onions are tender, 18 to 25 minutes.
7. Let beef rest for 20 minutes before slicing against the grain. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt, and serve immediately. —MATT VAWTER, ROOTSTALK, BRECKENRIDGE, COLORADO
MAKE AHEAD Spices can be toasted up to 3 days in advance. Beef can be prepared through step 3 up to 1 day in advance.
WINE A spicy, full-bodied Syrah: 2021 Samsara Zotovich Vineyard
NOTE Beef strip loin roast is the cut that individual New York strip steaks are sliced from. Find beef strip loin roast at most butcher shops or online at wildforkfoods.com.
Jacques Pépin’s Duck à l’Orange
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 40 MINSERVES 8 TO 10
Golden roast ducks are served with a sweet and aromatic orange sauce in this centerpiece-worthy dish from Jacques Pépin. Start the roasting process with a bit of water in the pan—this helps render the ducks’ fat while keeping the meat juicy. The water will eventually evaporate, allowing the ducks to brown and crisp.
2 (5½- to 6-lb.) Pekin ducks (see Note), fat trimmed and necks, gizzards, and hearts reserved
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. black pepper
1 cup water
3 navel oranges, divided
Fresh bay leaves, for garnish
Duck à l’Orange Sauce (recipe follows), warmed, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in center position. Cut off first 2 wing joints of ducks. Chop necks into 2-inch pieces. Reserve wing joints, neck pieces, gizzards, and hearts for duck à l’orange sauce (recipe follows). Using a paring knife, prick the skin around thighs, backs, and breasts of ducks, pricking about every ½ inch, to encourage fat rendering. Pat ducks dry, and sprinkle skin and cavities evenly with salt and pepper.
2. Place a roasting rack inside a large roasting pan; add 1 cup water. Arrange ducks, breast sides up, on rack, spacing as far apart as possible. Roast for 20 minutes. Remove pan from oven; reduce oven temperature to 350°F. Turn ducks on their sides, and prop ducks up by placing 2 large balls of aluminum foil between them; roast for 30 minutes. Flip ducks to the other side; roast for 30 minutes more.
3. Use a vegetable peeler to remove peel from 1 orange in long pieces. Cut pieces lengthwise into thin matchstick-size strips to yield about ¼ cup. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil over medium-high; add orange peel strips. Cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 1 minute. Drain and rinse strips under cold water; pat strips dry, and set aside.
4. Trim ¼ inch from top and bottom of all 3 oranges (including peeled orange). Cut off rind and white pith, following the curve of the fruit. Slice between membranes to cut oranges into segments; discard membranes. Set orange segments aside.
5. Remove and discard aluminum foil balls from roasting pan; arrange ducks breast sides up. Roast until ducks are deep golden brown, fat is rendered, and a thermometer inserted into thickest portion of thighs registers 165°F, 20 to 35 minutes. Increase oven temperature to broil. Broil ducks, rotating pan as needed, until skin is evenly browned and crispy, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove pan from oven.
6. Insert a wooden spoon into cavity of 1 duck, and tilt duck, letting juices run into roasting pan; repeat process with second duck. Place ducks on a cutting board; set aside. Transfer pan juices to a fat separator, and pour through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a liquid measuring cup to yield about 1 cup drippings; reserve fat for another use. (Alternatively, tilt roasting pan, and spoon off fat, reserving 1 cup drippings.) Reserve drippings for duck à l’orange sauce (recipe follows).
7. To serve, carve ducks, and arrange on a platter with reserved orange segments. Sprinkle with reserved orange peel strips, and garnish with bay leaves. Serve with warm duck à l’orange sauce. —JACQUES PÉPIN, ADAPTED FROM ESSENTIAL PÉPIN
WINE A berry-inflected red Burgundy: 2020 Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune du Château Premier Cru Rouge
NOTE Pekin ducks, known for their mild flavor and tender texture, are available at specialty butcher shops or online at tastyduck.com. Don’t confuse Pekin duck, a breed of duck, with Peking duck, a popular Chinese dish.
Duck à l’Orange Sauce
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 40 MIN MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS
A rich duck stock, made with sautéed vegetables and reserved duck wing tips and necks, forms the base of this silky, sweet, and slightly tangy sauce. Don’t be intimidated by the lengthy ingredient list—the sauce is easy to prepare, and the deeply complex flavor is worth it.
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Duck hearts, gizzards, wing joints, and neck pieces (reserved from Jacques Pépin’s Duck à l’Orange, recipe at left)
¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
¼ tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste
2 tomatoes, chopped (about 2 cups)
1 small leek (white and light green parts only), roughly chopped (about 1½ cups)
2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped (about 1 cup)
1 small yellow onion, roughly chopped (about 1 cup)
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped (about ¾ cup)
2 garlic cloves, smashed
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. dried thyme
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
4 cups chicken stock
1 cup (8 oz.) dry white wine
½ cup cider vinegar
⅓ cup granulated sugar
1 cup fresh orange juice (about 4 oranges)
2 Tbsp. currant jelly
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) Grand Marnier
2 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cubed
1 cup drippings (reserved from Jacques Pépin’s Duck à l’Orange, recipe at left)
1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high. Add duck hearts, gizzards, wing joints, neck pieces, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, leek, carrots, onion, celery, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme; cook, stirring occasionally and scraping bottom of saucepan to release browned bits, until vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in flour and tomato paste; cook, stirring constantly, until well incorporated, about 1 minute.
2. Gradually stir chicken stock and wine into vegetable mixture in saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until thickened, 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Pour mixture through a fine wire-mesh strainer placed over a liquid measuring cup, pressing on solids with the back of a spoon to yield about 1 cup liquid. Set duck stock aside; discard solids. Wash and dry saucepan.
3. Bring vinegar and sugar to a boil in saucepan over medium, stirring often until sugar is dissolved. Cook, undisturbed, until sugar mixture is a pale caramel color, about 4 minutes.
4. Gradually stir orange juice, currant jelly, and reserved duck stock into sugar mixture. Bring to a simmer over medium; cook, stirring occasionally, until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Stir in Grand Marnier, and remove from heat. Swirl in butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until well combined. Stir in duck drippings. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste. —JACQUES PÉPIN, ADAPTED FROM ESSENTIAL PÉPIN
MAKE AHEAD Duck stock can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.