FROM LEFT Designs by Tolu Coker, Thebe Magugu, David Koma, Thebe Magugu, Boyedoe
With fashion month on the horizon, the same old questions are aflutter among the style set. “Are you going to Paris?” “Where are you staying?” “Will I see you at Gucci?” The industry remains tethered to The Big Four – New York, London, Milan and Paris – rarely venturing beyond the cities’ parameters in search of something different.
Slowly but surely, the conversation is changing. Fashion’s most influential voices are no longer confined to the West, meaning unique threads of their heritage are reflected within their work. Mexican-American designer Willy Chavarria continues to draw from his Chicano background, while recent seasons have witnessed the ascension of South African LVMH winner Thebe Magugu, Foday Dumbuya’s Labrum and British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker. Although creative leadership is still overwhelmingly dominated by white men, fashion’s passport is subtly diversifying.
Yet the fact remains: to see these designers bring their visions to life, we’re still expected to flock to the traditional fashion capitals. We wait for the world’s most exciting talent to come to us. So, we decided to reverse the narrative and go to them instead. Here, we’ve spotlighted three innovative yet underrated fashion capitals where creativity is flourishing, and which deserve a place on every fashion enthusiast’s radar.
GEORGIA
Famous for its wine and flanked by rugged peaks, including Mount Shkhara, and pooling natural splendours like the Veryovkina Cave, Georgia remains a mecca for those seeking a touch of eccentricity. Located in the Caucasus region and bordered by the Black Sea, the country has gifted the fashion industry the likes of Demna Gvasalia, George Keburia, Galib Gassanoff, Mach & Mach’s Nina and Gvantsa Macharashvili and David Koma. “Georgian style has a free-spirited, almost rebellious quality – there is often a darker edge, but it’s never forced,” the latter, creative director of his eponymous brand and Blumarine, says. “More people are discovering the country as a travel destination, drawn by its incredible food, wine, culture and landscapes. Naturally, that increased interest shines a light on its creative industries too, including fashion. Visitors arrive expecting beautiful scenery and leave discovering a distinctive design culture with its own identity.”
The designer yields inspiration from the exquisite Georgian landscape and its pioneering historical female leaders, such as Queen Tamar who reigned from 1184 to 1213: “As the global industry values originality over conformity, I think Georgian fashion is perfectly positioned to continue gaining international recognition while staying true to its roots.”
One way the country continues to muscle its way onto the global stage is via Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi, founded by Sofia Tchkonia. “Georgian designers often have to work extremely hard to compete globally while operating with fewer resources than brands in larger fashion markets,” Sofia says. “However, this has also created a generation of designers who are resourceful, resilient, and highly creative. The multihyphenate has been instrumental in promoting collaboration between Georgian designs, press and buyers. “What is particularly exciting is that new voices continue to emerge, each bringing a different perspective to Georgian fashion and expanding the international understanding of what Georgian design can be,” she continues. “There is a fearlessness to Georgian style – people are not afraid to express their identity through what they wear.”
FROM LEFT David Koma, Genaro Rivas, Labrum
PERU
South America is a melting pot of textile innovation. Leading the charge is Peru, a country whose sartorial history spans over two millennia of traditional textile craftsmanship. You’ve likely witnessed the vibrancy of Peruvian designs across your social media feed, yet the nation’s fashion industry is far more than a handful of colourful threads. Peru is flying the flag for local, sustainable design. According to researcher Luigi Leclercq-Machado, Peruvians prefer to buy sustainably-produced fashion items due to heightened environmental awareness.
Peru’s deep-rooted commitment to sustainable fashion is far removed from the frumpy stereotypes often associated with ethical dressing. Peruvian designer and London College of Fashion graduate Genaro Rivas was the first person to make a 3D-printed dress in Peru and Latin America. The award-winning talent has gained international recognition for his subversive collections, which explore a dialogue between London and Peru. His spring/summer 2027 collection, State of Impact, features deconstructed organic denim, punkish metal hardware and pieces crafted from salvaged chandeliers. The show was publicly held in east London’s Spitalfields, platforming Peruvian prowess for all to see.
“Heritage defines the way we dress,” says Peruvian designer Annaiss Yucra. “Peruvians often inherit garments, textiles and objects from previous generations. Our identity is the result of centuries of cultural exchange, migration and mestizaje, allowing us to combine ancestral traditions with contemporary life in a very natural way.” The brand founder highlights the luxuriousness of Peru’s native fibres, which include Pima cotton, alpaca and vicuña. “Working with Peruvian fibres feels like working with my own identity,” she adds. “They have always been part of my life, so designing with them is something deeply personal rather than a conscious decision.”
With the backing of style powerhouses such as Ulla Johnson, whose work with Indigenous cooperatives helps sustain local artisans, Peru is nurturing a new wave of ethical designers whose work is steeped in cultural heritage, artisanal expertise and conscious production.